July 15. We headed to Cappadocia by air today, but not until 5:00 pm. That gave us time to do the e-bike tour that we had seen advertised. The owner picked us up at 9:20 (in his Mercedes!) and we were off to get our fancy reflective vests, helmets, and e-bikes. If only I could use one of those things for the upcoming Victoria fondo! It was a pricey tour and fun, but I didn’t think it was great value. We started at Konyaalti beach at the western end of the city and went all the way to Lara beach at the eastern end (20km) with a break in the old town for excellent homemade lemonade and Dutch pannekoeks. The group was varied – a Dutch family of five, a couple in their sixties from Denmark who have a summer place in Turkey, and us. All in all, a good mix. The Danish guy came decked out in his red cycling shorts – I saw the telltale “m dot” (Ironman tattoo) on his calf. He’s recently done a couple of half-ironman races following the footsteps of his son, and told Mark that it’s not too late to start!

Back to the hotel just in time to catch a shuttle from the hotel guy and head to the airport. Sadly, no time to shower, but such is life. Smooth check-in and flight to Nevsehir, about 40 minutes from where we’re staying in Goreme. The Kelebek hotel arranged for airport pick up and we found our driver immediately upon exiting the airport. Very unlike our normal DIY mode of travel, but was smooth and painless and I might just get used to that!

Wow. Our room in the fairy chimney was tiny – only room for the bed. And we shared a separate bathroom with the other fairy chimney. But it was cozy and very cool. How many people can say they’ve slept in a fairy chimney? The hotel is a maze of hallways, and Ali Jr. showed us around. I can see why they do – it’s a bit of a rabbit warren. He also explained all of the great things there are to do in the area of course, where the open air museum is, balloon rides, places for dinner, their spa….it went on a bit long for me.

We showered, and on our way out for a bite we decided to check to see if there were any balloon cancellations for the following morning. It was a long shot, but it doesn’t hurt to try. As it happened, a Japanese woman was trying to cancel as we walked in. The guy behind the desk explained that you can’t cancel at 8:00 pm the night before the balloon ride because they can’t sell the seat. Bonus!! We let him know we would take her spot! She was happy, we were happy, and I think the hotel guy was happy because she was being a little obstinate. Hooray! Well sorta. I am afraid of heights after all.

Quick dinner and early to bed as we had to be in the lobby at 4:35 a.m. Ugh! 

July 14. Another perfect day starts with another delicious Turkish breakfast. I may never eat cereal again. We decided to spend a third night in Antalya because we liked it so much and we bought a cheap flight on line to Cappadocia – it cost 120 lira each, or about 60 CAD. That beats a nine hour bus ride any day!

Once we got ourselves going, we headed to a museum that encompassed both a Greek Orthodox Church and a traditional Ottoman house. The church had been lovingly restored and the upstairs held an exhibit of old portrait photos from the late Ottoman era, the 1800’s. Very interesting to see photos of the tinker, cobbler, porter, liver seller, tea seller, sponge seller, pottery seller, simit seller, meatball seller, etc….It seems most people sold things. In fact, there was a story about a snow seller! Apparently people would pack snow into a goat hair lined bag and bring it to the “city” to sell. A precursor to getting a bag of ice for your drink, I guess.

There were a couple of beautifully written letters framed at the entrance to the church. The fellow who bought the church and house did so as a 50^th birthday gift to his wife. They were to be restored and opened to the people of Antalya as a museum. The second letter was to his 7 year old daughter, explaining that this gift to her mother was also something that she would have to take care of. I wish we had taken photos of the letters as they were very heartfelt and lovingly crafted yet quite old fashioned in their formality even though they only dated from 1991.

After lunch and an exploration of the old covered bazaar, the heat started to get to us so we decided to return to the oasis of our garden to have a wee rest in the shade. The chaise lounges under the umbrella were a lovely place to listen to Mark read me some Turkish history stories from the guide book (and I just might have dropped off to sleep a little bit).

Soon it was time for the hamam! I was unsure of what I should wear (or not wear) so decided that since these people were never going to see me again, I’d be a nudenick. Mark and I had signed up for the full meal deal for 80 lira (about 40 CAD.) This included bath, scrub, bubble massage, relaxation time, and oil massage and would take about 75 minutes. We were shown to our change room to wrap up in a Turkish towel, and then were led to the “hot room”. We were the only two in there, and it was silent except for the regular echoing drip from one of the taps. We sat on a hot marble pedestal in the center of the room under the high domed ceiling and sweated for about 15 minutes. There were 3 alcoves off of the central marble slab area where you could pour water on yourself and lounge about, and between the alcoves there were two small doors that led to private bathing rooms.

Finally our masseuse (bather?) led us to one of those treatment rooms where we each lay on a marble bench. It was a very interesting feeling to be bathed by someone. The room was entirely marble so the water just got tossed on you and ran down to the floor. Mark and I each had a masseuse, and they were both men. My guy was very respectful and kept my towel covering my girlie bits. I kept my eyes closed the whole time because if I can’t see him…..right? There was a lot of scrubbing and I think my tan got two shades lighter. The bubble massage felt awesome – like silk rippling over my skin. Then we were rinsed off , wrapped in fresh towels and led to the relaxation area in the foyer for apple tea and some fruit. Finally we were led to a room with two massage tables and had about a 20 minute oil massage. I was completely blissed out!

We decided on a pub crawl for dinner. Didn’t manage much of a dinner, unless peanuts counts. But the beer at the Castle Bar was the coldest I’ve had since home. The frosty glass would have received high praise from Christian Boenigk! A couple of big beers, peanuts, and leftover glow from the hamam brought on a completely different glow. Let’s go find some nargile! That’s apple tobacco in a hookah pipe for those of you who don’t know. It was great fun! We found the locals “nargile café” that was alive with loads of Turks playing backgammon and a tile game that I’m unfamiliar with. It’s been a long time since I’ve played backgammon, but thanks to Mr. Google, we got a refresher on the rules and I beat Mark 2 out of 3 (with a bit of help from a nice Turkish man at the next table). The apple smoke was most interesting. Because of the water pipe, it doesn’t burn at all and is very smooth. And because of the apple flavouring, it has a very appealing aroma and taste. Great way to end a great day.

The next morning we enjoyed a very leisurely buffet breakfast in the garden courtyard of our hotel. We started at 8:00, but I think it was 10:00 by the time the food eaten, the photos were loaded, the blog posted, and the research done for the next stop (Cappadocia).

Once our “chores” were done, we explored the old city (Kaleici) including the steep vendor-lined street down to the old Roman harbour. So many people wanting to “help” us. New shirt? Boat tour to the waterfall? Nice towels? How about a carpet?... We came across a fancy restaurant overlooking the harbour that had been recommended by the Danish family we met the previous day so we made reservations for dinner.

From there we explored further around Kaleici and beyond before grabbing lunch at Can Can Pide. We shared a tasty kebab wrap and carried on exploring. I found a store that actually had decent quality clothing that was having an awesome sale, and ended up with a new skirt. This is a big deal when you pack as lightly as I have. There’s been a lot of hand washing of clothes, so a new article of clothing is fun!

Back to the room for a rest, and then off to the hamam. Sadly, there was no space at that time so we booked for the following day. Next on the agenda: fancy pants dinner at Club Arma. The food was excellent and the setting spectacular, but the service was a bit too stiff. Vanilla was head and shoulders above.

On the way back to the hotel Mark tried to convince me to have some apple tobacco smoke from a hookah, but I was too chicken… that night.

July 12. We took the minibus to the bus station in Fethiye and a tout snagged us before we even set foot in the station. We got on a small bus that was supposed to be the fast direct bus. Well, I don’t know about fast, since it stopped at all sorts of teensy weensy “towns” (or intersections) but this was a blessing in disguise. We did take the shorter inland route, the roads were great, and we got to see some different scenery since up until now we had been on the coast and this route went through the mountains. There were huge quarries that had giant blocks of marble-like rock cut out of the sides. And we got to see the real people -- Granny and Gramps hugging grand-kids that were travelling alone to see them, the goat market, and the local small-town Sunday market. We had one pleasant rest stop where we stocked up on snacks for the remainder of the trip.

From the impressive bus terminal in Antalya (it looked more like an airport!) the Ant Ray tram took us to the edge of the historic district, known as Kaleici, where our next lodging, the Hotel Hadrianus, was located. The hotel front desk person told us to call him when we arrived at the clock tower as the old town roads are very twisty and difficult to navigate, but Mark’s map stood us in good stead. We walked through Hadrian’s Gate(!) into the old town and found our place in minutes.

Did the usual routine -- dropped the packs, and went exploring. The lunch spot we were looking for had disappeared, so we ended up at a very funky restaurant called LeMan Kultur. However, it was most appealing because of the array of misting fans that were arranged around the garden patio. So pleasant! We split a delicious steak salad called the “Angelina Jolie”and discovered that while ayran is good, ayran with mint is even better!!

We had just enough time left in the afternoon to head to the Antalya Museum. We took the old tram that runs every half hour or every hour, depending on who you ask. We waited a mere minute and it showed up – how convenient! Now, I am not a lover of museums, but Mark believes we need some culture once in a while, so we end up at them a lot. I usually take half the time so bring a book. But THIS museum was fantastic! We got the audio tour to go with it, and basically stayed until closing time. So many beautiful Roman sculptures, it was truly excellent. Once we pretty much got kicked out of the museum, we headed back to the tram, and it showed up 5 minutes later – lucky us! We gained some karma by purchasing tram tickets for a Danish family of four that only traveled with Euros. Apparently their travel agent said Euros would work every bit as well as Turkish Lira – ooops!

Earlier in the day we made reservations at a highly recommended restaurant called Vanilla. We showered, enjoyed some crisp white wine left over from the boat, and headed out. So yummy, but I think I might have had a bit more wine than was necessary. Oh well, that’s what vacations are for! I had catch of the day with an arugula salad, but don’t ask me what the catch was – I can’t remember. I remember it was local and delicious. Mark thoroughly enjoyed his duck confit with a glass (or two) of red wine. Finished with brownies and ice cream and a stroll home – fun was had by all!

As we were about to disembark from our yacht, we decided it would be a good time to pick a destination for the evening and call ahead to reserve a room.  Success on the first try so we were off to Yildirim’s Guest House in Fethiye.  Finding the bus station was easy enough with Dan’s guidance except for the part where Google Maps told us to walk straight through the military base. J

We checked into our spotless air-conditioned and Spartan room, dropped our bags and headed out. We wandered about the town, and it didn’t really have much draw for either of us. There heat and humidity were climbing and there were ominous black clouds. A big wind blew up, and before long big, fat raindrops were splatting on the sidewalks. Luckily we were just about at our lunch stop – a pide shop that Mark found in the guide book. Pide is kind of like a canoe shaped pizza, and we have seen lots of it everywhere. It’s very tasty! Also,a very common drink is Ayran, which is kind of like an Indian salt lassi – salty yogurt drink. Tastes much better than it sounds, I promise.

We hung out until the rain went away, slowly moseyed back to the guest house, and had a nap. In the evening we visited the Lycian tombs in the cliffs above the town around sunset The pink light hitting the cliffs was gorgeous.

We were heading back to the room, when we walked past a shop with an older woman rolling some bread type dough impossibly thin on a low wooden table. She would then add some greens, feta cheese, fold it over, pinch it closed, and lay it on a convex hot pan, kind of like an inverted wok. Once it browned on one side, it was expertly flipped, and done on the other side. 5 minutes total. I was fascinated so we went in. Definitely a locals place – not a lot of English was spoken and it took some gesturing, but we very much enjoyed our first spinach and feta guzleme! Very yummy. I’m not sure about the turnip juice that Mark had to drink with it (tastes like pickle juice) but along with an ayran, it made for a delicious dinner. It’s my new favorite food, and I will look for it everywhere. I fear it’s not something easily duplicated at home, so will have to eat my fill here. 

On the walk home we went past the fish market where you pick your fish in the center of the market and it gets taken to one of the surrounding restaurants on the edge of the market for cooking. It was a very happening place, but unfortunately we were both full so headed off to bed. 

The next morning we spoke to Omer, the local who owned the guest house, to get the low down on the bus options to Antalya. Turns out that for a few years he used to live in Dundarave and write for the North Shore News. It really is a small world.

Saturday, July 11. The last few days on board the yacht were bittersweet. Lots of swimming, eating, drinking and visiting. But I was very aware that the end was in close sight. On the last night, Brandie and I sat with Captain Halil and learned more about the crew. It basically sounds like they bust their ass all summer and make enough money to live all winter. I expect the wages are not great, but the tips are good. And besides, they don’t have time to spend any money!

Yesterday’s lunch spot was quite near Marmaris, where we are getting off the boat. The bay seemed to be the destination for all the Marmaris party tour boats – they have to be seen to be believed. Giant behemoths with tattered sails to look like a pirate ship – so, so tacky. We left soon after lunch and went to another bay, thankfully.

Dan and I hopped in the kayak and paddled to the island shore opposite where there was “a hotel” according to Halil. It was an all-inclusive resort and we were greeted by the two sailing instructors at the beach. Ooops! We struck up a conversation with them, told them about Vancouver, where they wondered if they could get work. In the end, they didn’t kick us out so we explored a little. Seemed like you had to pay for booze and there were a million children there so obviously geared to families. There was a mini triathlon going on – 1 mile run, short kayak, and 240 m swim. We represented Rackets and Runners well, and cheered like the pros that we are. We tried to purchase some Fanta for our shandy supply, but sadly there was none to be had.

Our captain disappeared from the boat quite late and returned very early in the morning. At breakfast we all assumed that he had gone out for a night on the town, but we found out this morning he went to the hospital with some kidney issues. I’m glad it was the last day of the trip and we were headed back to Marmaris. Poor guy, he must have felt awful!

When we docked this morning, there was a small boat in our slip. I’m sure that Captain Halil just wanted to dock the boat and get off. After about 10 minutes the owner of the small boat showed up and moved it over to make barely enough room for us. The way the captain backed the Ugur into that slip was very impressive!

Mark and I are now on the 3 hour bus ride to Fethiye. Of course there is the requisite crying baby but luckily we both had a relatively short night last night so are tired and will hopefully get some shut eye. This is quite a stark difference from where we just were, that’s for sure. From yacht to bus – luckily we’re adaptable! We’re looking forward to some more adventure! 

On Thursday, July 9th, we went on a (mediocre) guided tour of the Dalyan river area. A tour boat picked us up from the Ugur and took us on a day trip to Turtle Beach, the ruins of Kaunos, the King's Tombs, and the town of Dalyan, It seemed odd to have such a large boat for only 7 of us – the boat easily could have held 30. I’m pretty sure we paid a bit of a premium because our group was so small, but so be it. 

The first leg of the boat ride was fun, since the crossing to Turtle Beach was though somewhat rough water. Edwina, who’s afraid of the water, was a trooper! The boat pitched and rolled and she held on for dear life. She’s so brave! Turtle Beach looked like a lovely place to swim. It is 4 km long and appeared well used by the locals. The beach is off limits to developers and is closed between 8pm and 8am because it is a nesting ground.  There's apparently a conservation and animal rehab center at the far end of the beach but the guide said it was too far away for us to visit. :-(

Our boat headed up river through a maze channels winding through reeds and bamboo. I'm guessing that the tour guide had to spend some time learning the route. That said, it would be challenging to get lost in since there were SO MANY BOATS! Undoubtedly this is a popular tourist destination. We did see a few Loggerhead turtles, but mostly just glimpses of their heads, and it was reminiscent of whale watching. Blink, and you’ll miss it. We stopped at the boats selling Blue Crab (they are truly blue) and got to have a taste. Very similar to our delicious Dungeness, but smaller. There were TONS of little Grey Mullet (fish) around and they would make the water boil when you tossed your crab shell in the water. 

The ruins at Kaunos were interesting to wander around. It actually felt good to walk the 1.5 km to get there! The life of a yacht wench is fantastic, but I have been missing my daily dose of exercise. The highlight of the ruins for me was the Roman amphitheater. I sat quietly wondering what life must have been like so long ago.

Ice cream treats at the gift shop and then back to the tour boat where we went to Dalyan town. It is overrun by Brits – apparently a package deal destination, and it sure looked like it. Ticky tacky shops everywhere! We did go for a good lunch – traditional Turkish food. No menu (so no prices) and you pick from the display case and they cook it for you. Felt strange to have to pay for food!

 Our guide tried desperately to get us to go to the thermal mud baths further up the river, but since we were underwhelmed by the experience so far, we opted to go back to the Ugur and play in the water.